12/29/2023 0 Comments Clear gelatin shit mean![]() Pour in the gelatin mix until the void is full, this will be more than the void needs so remember to do this where any spilled gelatin can be easily cleaned off and reused. Turn the negative mould on it's back so that the void is uppermost. Once the gelatin is melted in your jug (remember not to boil it), you are ready to pour. I would recommend that for this small mask you use the raw stuff, for larger masks and prosthetics try the foamed. The method here is to heat up our prepared gelatin in the microwave until it is liquid (don't let it boil). We now have a head (the positive mould), and a mask cast (the negative mould). Congratulations, you have just made a two part mould. When fitted back together this will leave a void into which will go our gelatin. It doesn't matter if some of the plasticine comes away with the cast or stays stuck to the head.Ĭarefully clean away and remove ALL TRACES of the plasticine from both the head and the mould. Grip the edge with your fingers and gently ease the upper cast off the head. this will leave a ledge around the upper plaster mould. Another cup of tea and another smoke helps here.Īfter an hour you can de-mould. Eventually you want a mould at least 3/4" or 20mm thick. You can add plaster bandage or scrim net to strengthen and support the plaster as you go. If it all gets a bit out of hand, leave it for 20 minutes to set and then mix up some more plaster and add to the dried stuff. Once you have a base of plaster down, start slowly adding to the initial coat. I like the messy aspect of it all and get stuck in with my hands and fingers. If you use a brush be careful not to disturb the surface of the plasticine. Start by getting a quick even layer of plaster all over the mask. I ignore the fancy mixing formulae, two parts powder to one part water (by volume) will generally give good results every time. Plaster for casting is available at most art shops, or craft shops, or off the net. Use Vaseline or one of the silicone release sprays. If your head is made of plaster, then you need to add a mould release agent before starting on the negative mould. Once you are ready mix up some Plaster of Paris or casting plaster (I use Crystacal-R). Now I leave it for a while to have some tea and a smoke and let it all settle down a bit. ![]() I use more plasticine to build the fence up. Once completed, we need to make a fence to hold back the plaster and give us a working area. Plasticine is oil based so for my final smoothing I use a bit of WD-40 on my fingers to blend out the edges. Be careful in areas around the eyes and mouth because you will have to stick this on later and you don't want glue getting in your victims eyes. The mask in the video is simple and effective to make, but you could make almost anything you want. Start smoothing out the bumps and joints with your fingers. Using plasticine, plonk bits onto the face in roughly the areas that you want the final mask. ![]() I'm going to use my mannequin head as the face cast. Otherwise generic ones can be made using a glass head or similar. If you want a mask to fit a specific person then you will need to cast their face (that's for another 'ible). To make a two part mould prosthetic like the one in the Peter Gaal video, we need to make some moulds. Too big a piece and the heat will start to melt the gelatin. ![]() Remember that resin heats up as it cures. The resin cast has retained the thread pattern. I have used the gelatin to cast a bolt to show the undercut it will take. Here is a link to the work of Peter Gaal (a true genius) using a latex bald cap and a gelatin 'nose' prosthetic to create an alien girl: The work of Peter Gaalīelow is how to use it to make a simple mould. Therefore it can be used to cast excellent prosthetics, you can use a plaster single mould, such as the ones used in my other 'ibles, or in a two part mould to create face masks and suchlike. It has almost exactly the same mass and elasticity as natural muscle. The basic mix also has a few other properties of interest. It will cast almost any cold cure material such as resin or plaster, as long as the pattern can take the heat when pouring. It can be used to make moulds by simply warming it in the microwave until it becomes liquid, pour it over the pattern, allow it to cool and then remove the pattern. It is strong enough to take a fair bit of undercut, though not as strong as RTV rubber. The basic mix has a number of properties.
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